Pockets that sit in the side seam

A Happy New Year to all! I was hoping that I might have caught up with myself by now! But I haven’t! I have a couple of posts for pocket constructions that I had almost completed, when I was making up student sample garments back in August/September so here is one of them.

The photo below shows a side seam pocket in a panelled seam of a dress. These pockets are not stitched by me! I quite often forget to take a before or after picture, but I want to be clear about the type of pocket that I’m describing, and it’s order of assembly.

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This is my preferred way to make up pockets that sit in the side seam.  I know there are other ways of sewing these, but this is how they were produced in the factory and this method gives defined, structured edges and doesn’t waste fabric!

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I overlocked the side seam and marked the opening of the side seam pocket. I only overlocked these seams separately because the seam allowances are only 1cm and the thickness of the fabric will push my old overlocker off the fabric, it needs a bigger seam allowance, if the seams are to be kept open.
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With right sides together, of the pocket and the front trouser panel, match the markings or notches and pin, ready to sew between these two marks.
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Sew, and backstitch, between the pins/notches.
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Trim the threads and snip from the edge to the first and last stitches.
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Turn through to the right side and stay stitch. Only include the pocket pieces and seams not the front trouser piece.
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This is how it should look on the right side of the front piece, then press. I love how the simple snips form the corners of this type of pocket.

Ready to put the front and back pieces together and sew the side seams. And now I discover that I didn’t take a finished photo and I made about 4 pairs of these trousers!

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A side pocket on a pair of trousers, well worn, from the wardrobe. This pair show the side seam pocket with twin needled feature stitching and bar tacks. The bar tacks finish the ends of the twin needle stitch nicely and they reinforce the strength of the pockets!

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