Kelly wanted pin tucks featured on some of the trousers she was showing in her collection. It’s very easy to make a pin tuck before starting the make-up of a garment! Just follow the grain line!
This reminded me of the fact that I usually use pin tucks on linen trousers because I don’t like how baggy and wide they seemed to grow when they’re worn. The plain trousers in the image above are made in a cotton/linen mix and they have the same growing problem? Rather than recycle them I decided to add a pin tuck, which really just redefines the pressed crease formed on the original trouser. I found the centre front grain line, which would be the pressed crease line, and repressed it, then stitched down this line at only 2mm from the edge. This not only looks smarter but keeps the trouser shape in a much more controlled way. I usually only apply it to the fronts and leave the backs pin tuck free!
Fold the paper pattern at the hem edge, at the centre point, forming a right angle, line up the side seams and fold the pattern piece up to the waistline. Draw in this line. I noticed that some produced patterns grain lines are marked differently, but the lines will run parallel to the grain line you have just made.
Mark the top edge (on the waistline) and the bottom edge in the centre of this line, hold the two notches length ways and press. It is the first thing to do while the trousers fronts are still individual pieces. Once pressed each tuck can be easily stitched at the required pin tuck depth.