A top to create from beginning to end – part 3

Making instructions

The toile. If this is a first time I would make a toile. The perfect fabric for this would be old sheets, in fact the older the better as they become softer with age !! Or if you manage to find a bargain piece of fabric like a man-made sheer polyester or chiffon type weight or anything drapy …do as I do and make it up with all seams finished off correctly ….and wear it !!

With the right sides of the fabric together join one shoulder seam. With the front on top of the back. Machine stitch, back tacking beginning and end. Overlock or zig zag. Press towards the back.

Take the neck edge binding and attach using a 7mm seam allowance. Measure the neck edge from the paper pattern and cut the binding to this length. Chalk the finished length onto the binding and allow for seam allowances, you should have an excess of binding when it’s attached, but I don’t think there is a strict rule for how much excess (or the opposite being I haven’t found a formula for giving the reduced binding length) – everything depends on fabric type. But you should allow the binding to stretch slightly through your fingers?…not too much or it will gather…and not too little or it will become baggy.  Sew the binding onto the wrong side of the fabric. And if your not confident about doing this…practise!!

Turn the fabric over and double turn the binding and top stitch. Double turning as you sew. Back stitch. Now press this.

Join the remaining shoulder seam and overlock or zigzag. Press towards the back. Then with a few top stitches sew the binding flat onto the shoulder seam.

The images show how neatly the neckline of the top sits on the dummy.

In the factory world of sewing you now have a choice?

a) Sew the hems of the armholes with a 5mm double turn hem. This would be sewn flat. Press. Sew the side seams and overlock. Press the side seams towards the back.


b) sew the side seams and overlock. Press side seams towards the back. Sew the hems of the armholes with a 5mm double turn hem. This would be sewn in a circle. Press.

Finish the hem with a 5mm double turn hem or overlock and stitch at 10mm. Press. And then wear it!!

Scan 11

For a third version of this pattern you can give it a feature hem. Add 50mm to the front and back hem edge. Press under 10mm and top stitch through at 40mm. Or you can overlock and stitch. This hem allowance measurement is simply a guide you can make it whatever you choose!

You could add a sleeve to this shape.

There are a series of garments that can be made simply from your own measurements??

Panelled skirt. Half or full circle skirt!


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