Is there anything better for those who love to sew than wearing something you create for yourself. Here is a pattern you can draft without having to use front and back bodice blocks. Enjoy the total satisfaction of the making process from beginning to end! I tested the instructions for drafting this pattern on a non pattern cutter and non maker and they found it easy to follow.
- Draw a vertical line 850mm long
- Plot point A 100mm down and point B 670mm down.
- Square across from point A, square across from point B and from point B mark point C at 290mm and square up.
- Square across from point A and plot point D on this line at 105mm.
- Square vertically through point D and plot point E 35mm up.
- Point A to point F is 322mm.
- Square down from Point F and plot point G at 28mm.
- Point F to point H is 14mm
- Square down from point H and plot point I 255mm down.
- Plot point J 350mm up from point C.
- Curve point I to join point J to form underarm curve.
- Plot point K 150mm up from point I. Curve point I to point k using a maximum of 4mm inside the straight line. Curve point K to point G.
Look at the line between points I and G and check that you like the shape of the armhole curve.
- With a straight line join point E to point G. This is 223mm.
- Mark halfway between points E and G. Plot 2mm above and make this point L and draw in a curve between points E,L and G. This forms the shoulder line.
- Form the back neck curve. At point D draw in a 45 degree angle. On this line plot point M 20mm from point D. Draw in neck curve between points A, M and E.
- Form the front neck curve. From point A plot point N 60mm down and square across and using line E to D extended, point O is where the lines A to N and E to D meet. At point O draw in a 45 degree angle. On this line plot point P 40mm from point O. Draw in front neck curve between points N,P and E.
There are always key areas in a pattern that should be double checked! In this one check that the shoulder line at point G is sitting at a right angle. If not tweak it to made sure it is…or it will not form a straight line for sewing the hem edge!
You can see this pattern has been formed with the front and back being the same and only the necklines are shaped differently. Trace off the front and the back and recut in paper on the fold if you prefer working with a whole front and back.
This pattern has NO seam allowances on it.
For the second version of this pattern from point A measure down 560mm and plot point Q, square across. This gives you a version of this pattern with an elasticated bottom edge. Cut elastic to 720mm ( includes joining of elastic of 10mm seam) or to suit your own requirements. The width of elastic will dictate the hem allowance. Elastic of 5 or 7mm width should be fine but allow at least this measurement plus 3mm to turn up hem, single or double to allow the elastic enough space to be encased in the hem. For example if 5mm elastic is used a single overlocked edge hem should be 8-10mm. If 5mm elastic is used in a double turned hem then the hem allowance should be 15-17mm.