Perfect patch pockets on a curve

The images above are from Kelly Dawn Riot’s “formication” exhibit. I’m afraid the images are not clear because I took them with my phone in a very dark exhibition space! The interesting thing about making sample garments for other people is that it takes you out of your “comfort” making and in this case reminded me of a technique that I picked up from my days in industry, and that I applied here.

Cut a piece of card to the finished size of the pocket (minus all seam allowances). This is the template for all the pockets of the same size. Not only does the template allow you to achieve the best curve ever, but it makes sure all the pockets are identical since they usually come in pairs, and I was producing multiples of them!
With right sides together box out the corners of the pocket at the fold/turn back to form the finished top edge opening of the pocket. Pull through to the right side of the pocket and press.

Insert the card cut out shape into the top turn back edge of the pocket and press the seam allowance over onto the template. Follow the curve and press against the template. Watch your fingers?! You will steam them!

I usually leave it for a couple of minutes then remove the card. This will produce a perfect curve. Top stitch through the facing. Pin into position on the garment and top stitch into place. This technique is, for me, one of the most successful ways of producing an accurate curve. If the pocket is to be truly functional a back stitch is not always a secure enough finish. Use the first line of the buttonhole stitch to form a bar tack or make a more decorative triangle shape with the top stitch!

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